What's Wrong With My House? Find It by Symptom

Do this first: Get everyone out to fresh air, pets included, and don't stop to look for the source; call 911 from outside and stay out until responders say it is safe. If you can't tell the alarm from a chirp, get out and call. Headaches, dizziness, or nausea with no alarm: get outside to fresh air immediately, call the fire department from a neighbor's home, and tell a doctor you suspect CO.

Likely causes

• Furnace or boiler with a cracked heat exchanger or blocked flue
• Gas water heater vent corroded, disconnected, or backdrafting
• Car in an attached garage, or a generator too close
• Fuel-burning space heater, gas oven used for heat, or snow-buried vents

Read

• CO Alarm Going OffThe emergency steps for a sounding CO alarm, and how to tell the alarm pattern from a battery chirp.
• CO Alarm Going Off: Most Likely Sources of CO in a HouseThe usual CO sources in a house, from the furnace and water heater to generators and snow-buried vents.
• Furnace Burning Smell: Most Likely CausesCarbon monoxide has no smell; headaches, dizziness, or nausea mean get outside and call the fire department.

Do this first: Treat the alarm as real until you know the cause; if you don't, leave and call 911 from outside. Never pull the battery, disconnect the power, or cover an alarm to stop a nuisance alarm; use the hush or silence button.

Likely causes

• Cooking smoke, especially spills and broiling
• Shower steam near a bathroom door
• Air from a vent, ceiling fan, or open window
• Dust, insects, or an alarm past 10 years old

Read

• Smoke Alarm Going Off: Most Likely CausesThe common nuisance causes, from cooking smoke and shower steam to dust, drafts, and an aging alarm, with the fix for each.
• Smoke Alarm Going Off: When All the Hardwired Alarms Go Off at OnceWhen every interconnected alarm sounds, how to find and silence the one that started it.
• Test Smoke Alarms: What the Sounds MeanWhat three beeps, four beeps, and each kind of chirp mean, and what to do for each.

Safety: Fix or replace a chirping alarm the same day; never silence it by pulling the battery and leaving it out. Kidde warns that a CO alarm in end-of-life mode can no longer detect CO.

Likely causes

• Residual charge from the old battery keeps the low-battery memory set
• Battery not seated, or the drawer not fully closed
• Alarm at end of life (smoke alarms: 10 years)
• The chirp is coming from a different device

Read

• Smoke Alarm Chirping: Most Likely CausesThe causes in the order that finds them fastest, and the reset that clears the most common one.
• Smoke Alarm Chirping: When to Replace InsteadWhen a chirping alarm should be replaced instead of re-batteried.
• CO Alarm Going Off: Alarm or Chirp? Know the DifferenceTells a CO alarm's four-beep alarm from its low-battery, end-of-life, and malfunction chirps.

Do this first: Get everyone out, don't switch anything on or off or use a phone, and call 911 and the gas utility once you're a safe distance away. Don't go back in until the utility or emergency crews say it's safe.

Likely causes

• A natural gas or propane leak; the odorant smells like rotten eggs
• A leak near a gas water heater, furnace, range, or meter
• Propane collecting at floor level, so a low smell counts

Read

• Emergency ShutoffsThe two rules before any valve: leave first if you smell gas, and keep water away from electricity.
• Emergency Shutoffs: When to close it: your utility's ruleUtilities' rules on closing the gas meter valve, and why you never stay in or go back in to reach it.
• Rotten-Egg Hot Water: First, Check: Air or Water, Hot or ColdHow to tell gas in the air from a sulfur smell in the hot water; if you cannot tell, treat it as gas.

Do this first: Turn the furnace off at the thermostat, then at the service switch, which looks like a light switch on the side of the furnace, a nearby wall, or a ceiling joist. Call a technician, and don't run it again until it has been inspected.

Likely causes

• Overheating blower motor
• Damaged wiring or melting wire casing
• A clogged filter making the blower motor overheat
• Another appliance, like a dryer or toaster oven, smelling the same

Read

• Furnace Burning Smell: Most Likely CausesEach furnace smell and its cause, including the electrical smells that mean shut it off and call.
• Furnace Burning Smell: When to Call a ProWhich smells need a licensed HVAC technician, and keeping the furnace off until then.

Safety: If you smell gas, stop here. A rotten-egg smell in the air near a gas water heater, furnace, range, or the gas meter can be a gas leak. Leave the house, do not switch lights, appliances, or phones on or off on the way out, and call the gas utility or 911 from outside.

Likely causes

• Bacteria in the tank reacting with the anode rod (hot only)
• A softener, well water, or a heater left unused (hot only)
• Hydrogen sulfide in a private well (hot and cold)
• A problem on the city water side (hot and cold)

Read

• Rotten-Egg Hot Water: First, Check: Air or Water, Hot or ColdRule out gas first, then compare the hot and cold taps to find whether the heater or the supply is the source.
• Rotten-Egg Hot Water: Most Likely CausesThe four causes, sorted by whether only the hot water smells or the cold does too.
• Water Heater Anode Rod: When to Check or Replace ItWhen to check or replace the anode rod, including a rotten-egg smell from the hot taps.

Safety: If you smell rotten eggs and aren't sure it's the drain, treat it as gas: leave the house, do not switch lights, appliances, or phones on or off on the way out, and call the gas utility or 911 from outside. A sewer smell from the drain means open a window and call a plumber.

Likely causes

• An S-trap under a sink siphoning its water seal dry
• A dry trap that running water would refill
• Drain venting trouble, which can siphon traps
• A broken toilet wax seal (the odor comes and goes)

Read

• S-Trap: Why It MattersHow an unvented S-trap loses its water seal and lets sewer gas in, and why gurgling is a warning sign.
• Loose Toilet: Why It MattersA rocking toilet can break its wax seal; a sewer odor that comes and goes is one of the signs.
• Toilet CloggedTelling a sewer smell from gas: if unsure, treat it as gas; a sewer smell from the drain means call a plumber.

Safety: Trane and American Standard say that if the smell persists for more than an hour, turn the furnace off and call an HVAC professional.

Likely causes

• Summer dust burning off the burner and heat exchanger
• A dirty filter, if the dusty smell lasts
• A toy or plastic in a register (one room)
• Factory coatings burning off a brand-new furnace

Read

• Furnace Burning Smell: First, Check What Is NormalWhat a normal first-start dust smell is, how long makers say it lasts, and when it stops being normal.
• Furnace Burning Smell: Most Likely CausesEach smell and its cause, from a dirty filter to something stuck in a register, with the fix.
• Change a Furnace Filter: Step-by-StepFinding the filter, reading its arrow, and getting the size right.

Likely causes

• The system hasn't run in a while
• Mold or mildew in the ducts, filter, or cooling coil
• A clogged condensate drain raising indoor humidity

Read

• Furnace Burning Smell: Most Likely CausesA musty smell may just mean the system sat unused; if it persists, change the filter, then call the HVAC company.
• Clogged Condensate Line: Signs of a Clogged Condensate Drain LineA musty smell from the vents is one sign of a clogged condensate drain.

Safety: Turn the system off if the smell is strong or doesn't go away, and call your heating technician.

Likely causes

• An oil leak
• A burner problem
• A heat exchanger failure

Read

• Furnace Burning Smell: Most Likely CausesWhat an oily smell from an oil furnace can mean, and when to turn the system off.

Do this first: Shut off the main water valve, unless reaching it means stepping into water near electricity. Stay out of water that could be touching electricity, drain the lines, and turn off the water heater if the water will stay off. Turn off power to that area at the breaker panel only if you can reach the panel standing on a dry floor, with dry hands.

Likely causes

• Freezing: the pipe splits in a cold spot
• A failed supply hose or connector
• Age and corrosion, such as pinholes or rusted galvanized pipe
• Water pressure that is too high

Read

• Burst Pipe: What to Do Right NowThe first-hour checklist: shut off the main, keep clear of electricity, drain the lines, photograph, and call a plumber.
• Main Water Shutoff: Find the valveWhere the main water shutoff usually is, so you can close it fast.
• Burst Pipe: Why Pipes BurstThe usual reasons pipes burst, from freezing to failed hoses, corrosion, and high pressure.

Do this first: Gas or power off, cold supply closed, then dry everything and find the source. On an electric heater, turn the power off at the breaker before you touch the heater or the water around it.

Safety: Never touch a breaker or anything electrical with wet hands or while standing in water; if water has reached the panel, or you'd have to stand in water to reach it, call your electric utility to cut power from outside.

Likely causes

• Condensation after a cold refill (normal; clears once hot)
• The T&P relief valve releasing water
• A dripping drain valve or a loose fitting on top
• The tank itself corroding through

Read

• Water Heater Leaking: First: Shut It Down and Stop the WaterHow to shut down a gas or electric heater, close the cold supply, and contain the water.
• Water Heater Leaking: Find Where the Water Is Coming FromTrace the water with paper towels and swabs, and rule out other appliances nearby.
• Water Heater Leaking: Most Likely CausesThe causes in checking order, which ones you can fix, and when a leaking tank means replacement.

Do this first: For a relief valve that won't stop, turn off the heat, close the cold supply, and call a plumber. Keep your hands and face clear of the valve and its pipe, because the water can scald, and never cap or plug that pipe.

Likely causes

• Thermal expansion in a closed system with no expansion tank
• Supply water pressure over 80 psi
• The heater overheating, if it releases very hot water or steam

Read

• Water Heater Popping: What Each Water Heater Noise MeansLists a relief valve that keeps releasing water as one of two water heater signs that mean act now.
• Water Heater Leaking: Most Likely CausesWhy a relief valve releases water, why a new valve alone will not fix thermal expansion, and when to call.
• Relief Valve Pipe: What to Do After You Move InKeep people clear of the valve outlet, never cap a drip, and have a plumber correct the pipe and the cause.

Do this first: Stay out from under it and keep everyone, pets included, out of the room; it can give way. Don't switch on lights or fans in a wet ceiling, and let the pros drain it. If heavy snow may be overstressing the roof, FEMA says to leave the building promptly and have a building official or structural engineer inspect it.

Likely causes

• A burst or leaking pipe above
• An ice dam leaking meltwater through the roof
• A roof overstressed by snow

Read

• Burst Pipe: Stay safe while you clean upStand clear of a sagging ceiling, keep its lights and fans off, and let the pros drain it.
• Ice Dam on Roof: If Water Is Coming In Right NowWhat to do while an ice dam leaks inside: keep water from electricity, catch the drips, photograph, and dry it.

Safety: If the ceiling sags or bulges, stay out from under it and keep everyone, pets included, out of the room; it can give way.

Likely causes

• An ice dam holding meltwater that leaks under the shingles
• Warm air leaking into the attic and melting roof snow
• Thin insulation above the outside walls

Read

• Ice Dam on Roof: If Water Is Coming In Right NowKeep water away from electricity, catch the drips, photograph the damage, check the attic safely, and dry it fast.
• Ice Dam on Roof: When to Call a ProWhen a roofer, electrician, structural engineer, or water-removal company takes over.
• Ice Dam on Roof: Most Likely CausesWhy ice dams form, starting with warm air leaking into the attic.

Safety: Set the thermostat to OFF, then turn off the service switch, which looks like a light switch on or near the furnace or air handler, or its breaker.

Likely causes

• A clogged condensate drain line or pan
• A failed or unplugged condensate pump
• A clogged furnace trap, or a frozen line in winter
• Ice melting off a frozen AC coil

Read

• Clogged Condensate Line: Signs of a Clogged Condensate Drain LineThe signs of a clog, from water at the unit to a ceiling stain under an attic air handler.
• Clogged Condensate Line: How to Unclog an AC Drain LineThe makers' steps: power off, dry the pan, vacuum the outside end, flush with vinegar, and test.
• Clogged Condensate Line: Water Leaking From a High-Efficiency FurnaceWater from a high-efficiency furnace: the trap and hose, a frozen line in winter, and pressure-switch lockouts.

Likely causes

• A running toilet with a leaking flapper
• A pipe leaking inside a wall or ceiling
• An underground leak between the meter and your shutoff

Read

• Low Water Pressure: Most Likely CausesHow to read the meter's leak indicator and tell an underground leak from one inside the house.
• Burst Pipe: How do I know if a pipe burst inside a wall?Signs of a pipe leaking inside a wall, and the two-hour water meter test.
• Toilet Keeps Running: Find the CauseA dye test in the tank shows whether water is leaking past the flapper.

Safety: The CPSC says never to run an unvented fuel-burning appliance in a room where people are sleeping, and never to heat the house with a gas range, oven, or clothes dryer.

Likely causes

• A humidifier set too high
• Showers and cooking without the exhaust fan
• Laundry drying indoors, or a dryer venting indoors
• A damp crawl space or basement

Read

• Window Condensation: Most Likely CausesThe moisture sources in checking order, from the humidifier to an unvented gas or kerosene heater.
• Window Condensation: What You Can Fix YourselfMeasure humidity, lower it as it gets colder outside, run the fans, and dry out the basement.

Do this first: Get everyone out and call 911 from outside. Don't use the fireplace again until a qualified chimney professional has swept and evaluated it.

Likely causes

• Creosote buildup in the flue, which is highly combustible
• Unseasoned wood, or a damper not opened wide enough
• Closed glass doors or a cool chimney speeding buildup

Read

• Fireplace Safety: Creosote and Chimney FiresThe signs of a chimney fire, why creosote burns, and not using the chimney until a pro has swept and evaluated it.
• Fireplace Safety: What should I do if I think my chimney is on fire?The short answer: get out, call 911 from outside, and keep the fireplace off until it is evaluated.
• Fireplace Safety: What Normal Looks LikeIf smoke spills into the room instead, confirm the damper is fully open; if it keeps happening, stop using the fireplace until a sweep looks.

Safety: If you smell gas, stop here. Leave the house, do not switch lights, appliances, or phones on or off on the way out, and call the gas utility or 911 from outside.

Likely causes

• Igniter or pilot trying to light but failing
• A cracked or failed igniter that never glows
• A gas supply or gas valve problem
• A dirty flame sensor (burners light, then go out)

Read

• Furnace Won't Turn On: Furnace Clicks but Won't Turn OnWhat clicking means, igniter versus gas valve, and which parts belong to the technician.
• Furnace Won't Turn On: Is the Gas On?Check whether other gas appliances work, and what to do on propane or with a closed furnace gas valve.
• Furnace Won't Turn On: Reading the Status Light Blink CodeWrite down the blink code before resetting anything and match it to the chart on your furnace.

Safety: A hiss or sizzle with water at the base of the heater means act now: turn off the heat, close the cold supply valve, and see what to do when a water heater leaks.

Likely causes

• Sediment on the tank bottom (the usual cause)
• Scale on an electric heater's elements
• Gel from an aluminum anode rod (crackling)

Read

• Water Heater Popping: What Each Water Heater Noise MeansA table of water heater sounds, from popping to screeching, with the usual cause and what to do.
• Flush a Water Heater: Step-by-StepThe flush that clears sediment, step by step.
• Water Heater Popping: When to Call a ProWhen the noise, the heater's age, or rusty water means a pro should look.

Safety: If a bang is followed by hissing, spraying, or running water, or water shows up on a floor, wall, or ceiling, treat it as a leak, not a noise.

Likely causes

• Water pressure above 80 psi
• A failed pressure-reducing valve, or pressure climbing overnight
• Loose pipes or missing straps
• A fast-closing valve on a washer, dishwasher, or ice maker

Read

• Banging Pipes: Most Likely CausesThe causes in checking order, starting with a hose-bib pressure test, and where the plumber takes over.
• Banging Pipes: What You Can Fix YourselfSecuring loose pipes and adding screw-on arrestors at the washer, sink, or toilet.

Do this first: If a CO alarm sounds or anyone has headaches, dizziness, or nausea, get everyone outside and call 911. Otherwise, shut off the furnace and open doors and windows, then call a professional.

Safety: Never jumper or bypass the furnace's flame rollout switch: Carrier says "DO NOT bypass the switch," and Rheem says not to install a jumper wire across it.

Likely causes

• A cracked heat exchanger leaking combustion gases
• Blocked or restricted venting
• Burner, orifice, or gas pressure problems
• Too little combustion air

Read

• Cracked Heat Exchanger: Why It MattersTrane's warning signs of a crack, including yellow or flickering flames, soot, and a CO alarm that keeps tripping.
• Flame Rollout: Why It MattersWhat trips the rollout switch, why soot at the burners means do not run the furnace, and never bypassing it.
• Cracked Heat Exchanger: What to Do After You Move InDo not run a furnace with a confirmed crack until it is fixed, and put CO alarms on every level.

Safety: Never chip or pry ice with a shovel, an ice pick, or any hard or sharp tool, which can puncture the coil (Bryant) and damage fins and fan blades (Lennox).

Likely causes

• A failed defrost control board, timer, or sensor
• Low refrigerant from a leak
• Restricted airflow or a clogged drain pan
• Freezing rain that overwhelms the defrost

Read

• Heat Pump Cold Air: How do I unfreeze my heat pump?Lennox's thaw steps, with EM heat keeping the house warm, and when to call.
• Heat Pump Cold Air: Most Likely CausesWhy ice may not clear, and why defrost and refrigerant repairs belong to a technician.
• Heat Pump Cold Air: When to Call a ProThe ice, breaker, and backup-heat signs that mean call a licensed HVAC technician.

Safety: If you use a space heater while the furnace is down, keep it 3 feet from anything that can burn, plug it straight into a wall outlet, and turn it off and unplug it when you leave the room or go to sleep.

Likely causes

• Thermostat not set to HEAT, or weak batteries
• Service switch or breaker turned off or tripped
• Blower door not pressing its safety switch
• A safety lockout: clogged filter, blocked vent, or full condensate drain

Read

• Furnace Won't Turn On: Why a Furnace Won't Turn OnWatch the startup sequence to see where it stops, then check the thermostat, power, and blower door.
• Furnace Won't Turn On: Clogged Filter or Lockout: Reset OnceRead the blink code, change the filter, and reset once; a repeat lockout means call.
• Furnace Won't Turn On: High-Efficiency Furnace Won't Start: Vent Pipes and CondensateClear snow from the plastic vent pipes outside and check the condensate pump.

Likely causes

• Thermostat fan set to ON instead of AUTO
• A dirty filter tripping the high-limit switch
• Burners not lighting: ignition, flame sensor, or gas supply
• A clogged condensate drain or snow-blocked vent pipes

Read

• Furnace Blowing Cold Air: Fan Set to ON Instead of AUTOThe most common cause, plus the mode, battery, and smart-thermostat fan schedule checks.
• Furnace Blowing Cold Air: Dirty Filter Tripping the Limit SwitchHow a clogged filter shuts the burners off while the blower keeps running, and the fix.
• Furnace Blowing Cold Air: Snow or Ice Blocking the Vent PipesClear snow or ice from a high-efficiency furnace's plastic pipe ends, from outside.

Safety: If airflow is fine and it still trips on high limit, the switch may be failing or the heat exchanger overheating, and a cracked heat exchanger can let combustion gases into the house: that is a technician visit today.

Likely causes

• A clogged filter or blocked registers (most common)
• A dirty flame sensor: the burner lights, then dies
• A blocked intake or exhaust pipe, or clogged condensate drain
• Thermostat placement, or an oversized furnace

Read

• Furnace Short Cycling: Two Kinds of Short CyclingTells a safety shutdown from a thermostat satisfied too soon, which point to different causes.
• Furnace Short Cycling: Most Likely CausesThe causes in checking order, which ones you can fix, and where the technician takes over.
• Furnace Short Cycling: Is short cycling dangerous?When short cycling points to an overheating heat exchanger that needs a prompt check.

Likely causes

• Normal: cooler heat pump air, and steam during defrost
• Thermostat on COOL, AUTO, EM heat, or fan ON
• A dirty filter, or an outdoor unit blocked by snow or leaves
• Backup (AUX) heat not coming on

Read

• Heat Pump Cold Air: First, Check What Is NormalWhy heat pump air feels cooler, what defrost and its steam look like, and what AUX and EM heat mean.
• Heat Pump Cold Air: Most Likely CausesThe causes from easiest to check: thermostat settings, filter, a blocked outdoor unit, and backup heat.
• Heat Pump Cold Air: What You Can Fix YourselfThermostat settings, filter changes, and clearing snow from the outdoor unit safely.

Safety: Power off before you pull the faceplate.

Likely causes

• Dead batteries
• No power from the system: breaker, service switch, or blower door
• A blown fuse on the furnace control board
• Mode, setpoint, schedule, or hold settings

Read

• Thermostat Not Working: The Screen Is BlankBlank-screen causes, from batteries and furnace power to a blown control-board fuse or a missing C-wire.
• Thermostat Not Working: The Screen Is On, but Nothing RunsCheck mode, setpoint, holds, and built-in delays, then whether the thermostat is calling for heat or cooling.

Safety: Never bleed a steam radiator or remove its vent.

Likely causes

• Air trapped at the top of the radiators
• Air coming in with fresh water added to the system
• Pressure too low to keep the top floor full
• Sludge, if cold at the bottom but warm on top

Read

• Bleed Radiators: Confirm it is hot water, not steamCheck first that it is a hot-water system, since steam radiators must never be bled.
• Bleed Radiators: Step-by-StepThe bleeding procedure, lowest floor first, and checking the boiler pressure afterward.
• Bleed Radiators: When to Call a ProPressure that keeps dropping, air that keeps returning, or a discharging relief valve means call a technician.

Do this first: If a CO alarm sounds or anyone has headaches, dizziness, or nausea, get everyone outside and call 911. Otherwise, turn off the gas to the heater until repairs are made, because failing to correct the cause can result in a fire.

Likely causes

• Vent pipe disconnected, loose, sloped wrong, or rusted
• A missing or loose draft hood
• Too little combustion air
• Exhaust fans pulling exhaust back down the vent

Read

• Water Heater Backdrafting: Why It MattersWhat spillage at the draft hood means, the makers' venting rules, and why soot means stop until it is corrected.
• Water Heater Backdrafting: Can You Fix It Yourself?Look over the vent once a year without touching it; the repair belongs to a licensed pro.
• Water Heater Backdrafting: Can an exhaust fan make a water heater backdraft?How exhaust fans in the same room can pull combustion gases back into the house.

Likely causes

• The anode rod is used up and the tank may be failing
• Tank corrosion or a deteriorating anode
• Old galvanized pipes rusting inside

Read

• Water Heater Popping: When to Call a ProLists rust-colored hot water among the reasons to call a pro, along with the heater's age and pooling water.
• Water Heater Anode Rod: When to Check or Replace ItRusty hot water as a sign the anode is spent, and when to check or replace it.
• Galvanized Pipes: Why It MattersRust-colored water from aging galvanized pipe, and why rust in hot water only may point to the heater.

Safety: If you smell gas, stop here. Do not light anything, switch anything on or off, or use a phone inside. Leave the house and call the gas utility or 911 from outside.

Likely causes

• A tripped breaker or ECO reset on an electric tank
• Pilot out, or the gas control on Vacation, Low, or Pilot
• Tankless: an error code, no power, or flow too low
• Sediment, a broken dip tube, or a failed lower element

Read

• No Hot Water: Start Here: Narrow It DownOne faucet or the whole house, none or not enough, and which type of heater you have.
• No Hot Water: Most Likely CausesThe causes for gas, electric, and tankless heaters, in the order to check them.
• No Hot Water: Hot water that runs out fast or is lukewarmWhy hot water runs out fast or stays lukewarm, from the thermostat setting to sediment and the dip tube.

Do this first: Don't reset anything. Keep your hands off it, leave the circuit off, and call an electrician now. If there is smoke or fire, get everyone out and call 911 from outside; if water has reached the panel, call your electric utility to cut power from outside.

Likely causes

• A short circuit or wiring fault
• Failing aluminum branch-wiring connections overheating
• A space heater plug or outlet overheating

Read

• Breaker Keeps Tripping: When to Call a ProThe warning signs that mean leave the circuit off and call an electrician now.
• Aluminum Wiring: Why It MattersIn homes wired with aluminum, hot cover plates, flickering lights, and burning-plastic smells are warning signs.

Do this first: Don't touch it again: the CPSC says to turn it off at the breaker and have an electrician check it. Never touch a breaker with wet hands or while standing on a wet surface.

Likely causes

• A ground fault: current leaking through water or a person
• A bare wire inside the appliance touching its metal case
• A three-prong outlet with no working ground

Read

• Breaker Keeps Tripping: When to Call a ProA tingle or shock is one of the signs that means call an electrician now.
• Ungrounded Outlets: Why It MattersHow a missing ground can let an appliance's metal case shock you.
• GFCI Won't Reset: When to Call a ProWhen a GFCI or an appliance that shocked someone needs a licensed electrician.

Safety: Keep children and pets away from exposed wiring and don't touch it. If you see scorch marks, smell burning, or hear buzzing, leave the circuit off and call an electrician now.

Likely causes

• A junction box with no cover
• An outlet or switch missing its cover plate
• Wires spliced with wire nuts or tape outside any box

Read

• Open Junction Box: Why It MattersWhy exposed wiring is a shock and fire hazard, even in an attic no one visits.
• Open Junction Box: What to Do After You Move InReplace missing plates yourself; boxes and splices go to an electrician; keep people away meanwhile.
• Open Junction Box: Can You Fix It Yourself?How to replace a missing cover plate safely, and when to stop and call an electrician.

Safety: If you also smell burning, see scorch marks or sparks, hear buzzing, or feel heat at an outlet or switch, keep your hands off it, leave the circuit off, and call an electrician now.

Likely causes

• Overheating or failing wiring connections
• Failing aluminum branch-wiring splices

Read

• Breaker Keeps Tripping: When to Call a ProFlickering or dimming lights are on the list of reasons to book an electrician soon.
• Aluminum Wiring: Why It MattersIn homes wired with aluminum, flickering lights can be a sign of failing connections; have an electrician find the cause promptly.

Safety: If it trips again right away, stop: leave it OFF and call an electrician. Space heaters: one per circuit, at least 3 feet from anything that can burn, plugged straight into the wall, and turned off and unplugged when you leave the room or go to sleep.

Likely causes

• An overloaded circuit, often a space heater
• A short circuit in a cord, appliance, or wiring
• A ground fault, or a tripped GFCI
• An AFCI trip, or a worn or failing breaker

Read

• Breaker Keeps Tripping: How to Reset a Breaker SafelyUnplug the load, reset once with dry hands, and stop if it trips again right away.
• Breaker Keeps Tripping: Most Likely CausesOverloads, shorts, ground faults, AFCI trips, and worn breakers, with the fix and the limit for each.
• Breaker Keeps Tripping: When to Call a ProWarning signs that mean leave the circuit off and call an electrician now.

Safety: Press RESET only with dry hands, on a dry floor.

Likely causes

• A different GFCI upstream has tripped
• No power reaching the GFCI, such as a tripped breaker
• A ground fault still on the circuit
• A GFCI wired backward or worn out

Read

• GFCI Won't Reset: Most Likely CausesThe causes in checking order, starting with finding the GFCI that actually tripped.
• Breaker Keeps Tripping: Why is an outlet dead when no breaker has tripped?Look for a tripped GFCI upstream on the same circuit and press its RESET.
• GFCI Won't Reset: When to Call a ProWhen a GFCI that will not reset, keeps tripping, or got wet needs a licensed electrician.

Safety: A generator goes outdoors only, at least 20 feet from the house, with the exhaust pointed away from windows, doors, and vents.

Likely causes

• A utility outage, if streetlights and neighbors are dark too
• A tripped breaker, if only your house is dark

Read

• Power Outage: Is the Power Out Just in Your House?Check the street and your panel to tell a utility outage from a problem inside, and how to report it.
• Power Outage: Stay Safe During a Power OutageCarbon monoxide, candles, downed power lines, and generator rules while the power is out.
• Power Outage: Keep Food SafeHow long the fridge and freezer keep food cold, and what to throw out.

Do this first: Don't flush again. Turn off the supply valve right away, as Korky and American Standard advise: the small oval handle on the wall or floor behind the toilet. If it won't turn, don't force it; close the main water shutoff instead.

Likely causes

• Too much paper or waste in the trapway
• Wipes or other things that don't break down
• An object stuck in the trap
• A blockage past the toilet, or a blocked vent

Read

• Toilet Clogged: Stop the Overflow FirstStop the overflow: no second flush, close the supply valve, press the flapper shut, and let the level drop.
• Toilet Clogged: What You Can Fix YourselfPlunging with a flange plunger, dish soap and hot water, and a closet auger, without chemical cleaners.
• Toilet Clogged: When It's the Main Line, Not the ToiletWhen several drains back up at once, the blockage is in the sewer line, beyond a plunger.

Safety: Never use an open flame. No blowtorch, propane or kerosene heater, charcoal stove, or any other open-flame device, per the Red Cross; the CDC says never thaw pipes with a torch.

Likely causes

• A pipe frozen along an exterior wall or in a crawl space
• A pipe in an unheated garage, attic, or outside-wall sink cabinet
• A freeze where the main line comes in (no water anywhere)
• A utility problem, if a neighbor has no water too

Read

• Frozen Pipes: What to Do FirstKeep the faucet open, find the main shutoff, and check for a split before applying any heat.
• Frozen Pipes: How to Thaw a Frozen Pipe SafelyThaw from the faucet end with gentle heat, following Red Cross and CDC guidance, never with a flame.
• Pipe Freeze Check: What to Do TonightSteps for a freezing night: drip faucets, open sink cabinets, hold the thermostat steady, and drain hoses.

Safety: If sewage backs up anywhere, stop using water and call a plumber, or the city if neighbors have it too. Keep children and animals out of the area, and cut the power to it only from a dry floor with dry hands.

Likely causes

• A blockage in a drain line the fixtures share
• A blockage in the sewer lateral to the street
• Tree roots in a cracked sewer pipe
• A city sewer problem, if neighbors have it too

Read

• Slow or Clogged Drain: One Drain or Several?How to tell a one-drain clog from a shared-line blockage, and who owns which part of the sewer pipe.
• Toilet Clogged: When It's the Main Line, Not the ToiletThe signs of a main-line blockage and why a plunger or short auger cannot reach it.
• Slow or Clogged Drain: When to Call a ProSewage backups: stop using water, keep people out, cut power only from a dry floor, and clean up safely.

Do this first: Water on the floor at the base after flushing, a sewer smell, or a soft floor around the toilet is urgent: stop using that toilet and have a plumber look soon.

Likely causes

• A wax seal broken by a toilet that rocks
• A wax ring that is not fully compressed
• An uneven floor under the toilet
• A broken flange or soft subfloor

Read

• Loose Toilet: Why It MattersHow a rocking toilet breaks its wax seal, and the signs that water is reaching the subfloor.
• Loose Toilet: What to Do After You Move InReset the toilet on a new wax seal, or shim and snug it if there is no sign of a leak.
• Toilet Keeps Running: When to Call a PlumberWater at the base or a rocking toilet is the wax ring or flange, and the toilet has to be pulled.

Likely causes

• A worn flapper leaking into the bowl
• Water level set too high, into the overflow tube
• A chain that is too short, too long, or tangled
• A failing fill valve

Read

• Toilet Keeps Running: Find the CauseCheck the water level, do the dye test for a flapper leak, and watch a flush to find the cause.
• Toilet Keeps Running: Most Likely Causes and FixesEach cause with its fix, from a new flapper to a new fill valve.
• Missing Expansion Tank: Why It MattersA toilet that runs briefly at night for no apparent reason may be a sign of thermal expansion.

Safety: If you already poured in a chemical drain cleaner, do not plunge, snake, or open the trap.

Likely causes

• Hair and soap scum on or below the stopper
• A pop-up stopper that no longer opens fully
• Buildup in the P-trap under the sink
• Grease and food in a kitchen sink

Read

• Slow or Clogged Drain: One Drain or Several?Run each fixture to tell a one-drain clog, a homeowner job, from a shared-line blockage.
• Slow or Clogged Drain: Most Likely CausesWhere one-drain clogs usually sit, from the stopper to the P-trap and the branch drain.
• Slow or Clogged Drain: What You Can Fix YourselfClean the stopper, hook out hair, plunge, clean the P-trap, then run a hand auger, testing after each step.

Likely causes

• A clogged aerator, partly closed stop valve, or worn cartridge
• Water heater shutoff not fully open (hot side only)
• Main shutoff not fully open, or a failing pressure-reducing valve
• A leak, old galvanized pipe, or a utility main break

Read

• Low Water Pressure: Narrow It DownOne faucet, the hot side only, or every faucet: where the weak flow is points to the cause.
• Low Water Pressure: Most Likely CausesWhole-house causes in checking order, from the main valve to a leak, old pipes, or a well.
• Galvanized Pipes: Why It MattersOld galvanized pipe clogs with rust and minerals and slows flow; it can also hold lead, so test the water.

Do this first: Disengage the opener until it's adjusted, repaired, or replaced: open and close the door by hand, keep children away from it, and never stand or walk under it. Pull the emergency release only with the door fully closed, if possible.

Likely causes

• A down-travel setting that needs adjusting
• Photo-eye sensors mounted above 6 inches
• A door that is out of balance
• An old opener made before the federal reversing rules

Read

• Garage Door Reverse: Why It MattersWhy a door that will not reverse is an entrapment hazard, and the usual causes on a newer opener.
• Garage Door Reverse: What to Do After You Move InDisengage the opener right away, then run the monthly reversal, photo-eye, and balance tests once fixed.
• Garage Door Reverse: Can You Fix It Yourself?What an owner can adjust, and why springs, cables, and door hardware belong to a technician.

Do this first: Have the bracket installed or re-engaged per the maker's instructions before using the range. Keep heavy items off the open door, and don't push down on it or use it to help you stand.

Likely causes

• Anti-tip bracket missing or loose
• Range foot not re-engaged in the bracket after moving

Read

• Anti-Tip Bracket: Why It MattersWhy an unanchored range can tip onto a child or an older adult, and what the makers require.
• Anti-Tip Bracket: Can You Fix It Yourself?Whirlpool's checks that the rear foot is in the bracket, including a gentle tilt test.
• Anti-Tip Bracket: What to Do After You Move InSafety tips until the bracket is engaged, and having a qualified installer fit it.

Safety: Never run the dryer while you are asleep or out of the house.

Likely causes

• A clogged vent duct
• A crushed foil or plastic transition duct behind the dryer
• A packed lint housing or a blocked vent cap
• A dirty moisture sensor from dryer sheets

Read

• Dryer Takes Two Cycles: The Five-Minute Airflow TestA five-minute test at the outside vent cap that shows whether the vent is the problem.
• Clean a Dryer Vent: Step-by-StepCleaning the full vent run from the dryer to the outside cap.
• Foil Dryer Vent: Why It MattersWhy foil and plastic duct trap lint and crush, and why a clogged vent is a fire hazard.

Safety: Never put your hand into a disposal, even switched off; InSinkErator, Moen, and Waste King all say so.

Likely causes

• Something wedged in the grinding parts (humming)
• A tripped reset button on the bottom
• No power at the outlet, switch, breaker, or GFCI
• A worn gasket or loose connection (leaks)

Read

• Disposal Not Working: Most Likely CausesEach symptom, silent, humming, slow, or leaking, with the cause and the fix.
• Disposal Not Working: What You Can Fix YourselfReset, free a jam with the hex wrench, test the outlet, plunge, and tighten connections.
• Disposal Not Working: When to Call a ProWhen an electrician, a plumber, or a replacement is the answer.

Do this first: Keep everyone off a deck that sways, bounces, or has a gap opening at the house until it's repaired. For a loose railing or guard at a high drop, keep people, especially children, away from that edge or stair until it's fixed.

Likely causes

• A ledger nailed to the house instead of bolted
• Rotted wood at the ledger or band joist
• A ledger fastened to brick veneer or a cantilevered floor
• A handrail or guard that is not solidly anchored

Read

• Deck Ledger: Why It MattersWhy nailed-only deck ledgers fail, and the signs, like a sway or a gap at the house, that make it urgent.
• Deck Ledger: Can You Fix It Yourself?The checks for nail heads on the ledger and lag screw tips from inside, done with no one on the deck.
• Missing Handrail: Why It MattersWhy loose handrails and guards are fall hazards, and when a rail that pulls away is urgent.

Safety: Don't climb onto the roof.

Likely causes

• Warm air leaking into the attic (a major cause)
• Thin insulation above the outside walls
• Heat sources in the attic, like leaky ducts
• Blocked soffit vents, or a complex roof shape

Read

• Ice Dam on Roof: What You're SeeingHow heat escaping into the attic builds an ice dam, and the signs inside and out.
• Ice Dam on Roof: What You Can Do Safely From the GroundRake the lower roof from the ground with a non-metallic rake, away from power lines.
• Ice Dam on Roof: What Not to DoNo climbing, chipping, torches, pressure washers, or rock salt.

Likely causes

• Rain splashing back, missing gutters, or sprinklers aimed at it
• Missing flashing around windows or at the roof edge
• Missing kick-out flashing at a roof-wall corner
• Siding touching the ground, or soil sloping toward the house

Read

• Wood Rot: Why It MattersWhy rot means water is getting in, what it may hide behind the siding, and when it becomes urgent.
• Kick-Out Flashing: Can You Fix It Yourself?Look for streaks, stains, or peeling paint below each roof-wall corner, and probe discolored trim.
• Wood Rot: Can You Fix It Yourself?The screwdriver test for soft wood, and which repairs are DIY versus a contractor job.

Safety: Don't use the fireplace until a CSIA-certified sweep has inspected the chimney, and ask whether a furnace or water heater that vents into it is safe to run.

Likely causes

• A mortar crown that weathered and cracked
• Water getting into the chimney
• Damage from a past chimney fire

Read

• Chimney Crown: Why It MattersHow a cracked crown lets water damage the chimney, and why a past chimney fire should be ruled out.
• Chimney Crown: Can You Fix It Yourself?Binocular and indoor checks you can do; the repair itself is roof work for a sweep or mason.
• Fireplace Safety: Creosote and Chimney FiresSigns of a past chimney fire, such as cracked exterior masonry, and not using it until evaluated.

Likely causes

• Loose "hitchhiker" granules shedding from a new roof
• Aging shingles wearing out
• Hail damage

Read

• Granule Loss: Why It MattersWhen granule loss is normal, when it means worn shingles, and the signs that need a roofer.
• Granule Loss: What to Do After You Move InKeep the gutters clear, and do the seasonal binocular and attic checks.
• Granule Loss: Can You Fix It Yourself?What you can check from the ground, and why shingle work belongs to a roofer.

Safety: Leave it undisturbed, never remove it yourself, and use trained, accredited asbestos professionals for any work that disturbs it.

Likely causes

• Vermiculite from the Libby, Montana, mine
• Asbestos-contaminated insulation, often sold as Zonolite

Read

• Vermiculite Insulation: Why It MattersWhy the EPA says to assume vermiculite contains asbestos, and why disturbing it is the risk.
• Vermiculite Insulation: What to Do After You Move InThe EPA's precautions: leave it alone, store nothing up there, keep children out, and hire pros for remodels.
• Vermiculite Insulation: Is it safe to live in a house with vermiculite insulation?Living with it safely means keeping it undisturbed.

Safety: Urgent: a wall that is visibly bulging, leaning, sliding in at the base, or crumbling, or cracks opening fast. Call a structural engineer right away and keep people away from that wall.

Likely causes

• Improper backfilling, or heavy vehicles near the wall
• Wet soil swelling or freezing against the wall
• Foundation settlement (tapered cracks, sloped floors)

Read

• Foundation Cracks: Why It MattersHow to sort cracks into monitor, repair-soon, and urgent by direction, width, and movement.
• Foundation Cracks: Can You Fix It Yourself?Structural repairs follow an engineer's design; you can monitor cracks and fix the drainage outside.

Safety: Stop if the insulation is loose and pebble-like: it may be vermiculite, which should be left undisturbed.

Likely causes

• Warm, moist house air leaking into the attic
• A bath or kitchen fan venting into the attic
• A roof leak
• Too little ventilation, or high indoor humidity

Read

• Mold in Attic: Why It MattersHow attics get wet enough to grow mold, and the signs that the roof wood is already damaged.
• Bath Fan Into Attic: Why It MattersA bath fan duct that ends in the attic sends shower moisture onto cold roof wood, encouraging mold.
• Mold in Attic: What to Do After You Move InFix the moisture source first, then clean up the mold the way the EPA describes.

Likely causes

• Downspouts emptying at the foundation
• Soil sloping toward the house
• Saturated soil or a high water table

Read

• Efflorescence: Why It MattersWhite salt deposits are harmless to your health but show water moving through the wall, and the salts can damage masonry.
• Downspout Drainage: Can You Fix It Yourself?Extend each downspout at least 5 feet onto ground that slopes away, a homeowner job.
• Negative Grading: Can You Fix It Yourself?Regrade low spots so the soil falls away from the house, after contacting 811 first.

Safety: Unplug the pump before touching anything in the pit, and plug it back in from dry footing.

Likely causes

• Float stuck in the on position
• A failed check valve letting water fall back
• A blocked or frozen discharge line
• A high water table, or water fed to the pit

Read

• Sump Pump Runs Constantly: Most Likely CausesThe seven causes in the order that finds them fastest, and how to check each.
• Sump Pump Runs Constantly: Fix ItThe fix for each cause, from freeing the float to replacing the check valve.
• Test a Sump Pump: What Normal Looks LikeWhat a healthy pump cycle looks like, and what humming, short-cycling, or constant running usually mean.

Safety: Unplug the pump before touching anything in the pit, and never bypass a GFCI the pump trips; replace the pump or have an electrician diagnose it.

Likely causes

• A jammed impeller or failed capacitor (humming)
• No power at the receptacle, or a tripped GFCI
• A stuck float switch or a failed motor
• A ground fault in the pump or cord (trips the GFCI)

Read

• Test a Sump Pump: What Normal Looks LikeWhat humming, grinding, not starting, or tripping the GFCI usually mean, and when to replace the pump.
• Sump Pump Runs Constantly: Most Likely CausesFloat, check valve, and discharge-line problems, in the order that finds them fastest.

Safety: It becomes repair-soon, a job for a licensed structural engineer, if it is a quarter inch wide or more and a foot or more long, grows or reopens, or its edges no longer line up. Water coming through it is repair-soon too, for a waterproofing contractor.

Likely causes

• Concrete shrinking as it dried
• Block-wall shrinkage in the building's first year

Read

• Foundation Cracks: Why It MattersHow to sort cracks into monitor, repair-soon, and urgent by direction, width, and movement.
• Foundation Cracks: What to Do After You Move InMark each end with the date, photograph it beside a ruler, and keep water away from the foundation.